Some days in the life of a Siberian cyclist… a dazzling rush through some random encounters from Rob Lilwall on Vimeo.
“Who begins a bicycle tour in Siberia?”
That was my first question when I cracked open the “Cycling Home from Siberia,” the latest bicycle travel book sent me by a publicist. After reading the first few pages of Rob Lilwall's travelogue, that first query was quickly expanded to:
“What inexperienced cyclist begins a bicycle tour of more than 3,000 miles across Siberia in September on a frozen highway known locally as 'The Road of Bones.'”
Although I knew Lilwall survived the ordeal (how could he have written the both otherwise), I was relieved to learn that the bicycle touring companion he was waiting for in Magadan was Alastair Humphreys. Today he's a well-known English bicycle adventurer and motivational speaker with a website and bicycle tour books of his own. Back in 2004 he was just another guy traveling around the world by bicycle.
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Lilwall and Humphreys got the idea of an epic journey while they were in college. Humphreys left on an around the world journey, and Lilwall stayed at home for a couple of years as a school teacher before flying to Siberia to meet up with the wandering Humphreys.
Needless to say, it does not go well. Bicycle tires and lube, tent windows and clothing doesn't work the same at minus 40 degrees Celsius as it does at warmer temperatures, like freezing. One of their many challenges was to keep their sweating to a minimum on the climbs.
These early chapters are full of scenes of frosty desolation and the amazing characters who inhabit this world. Lilwall and Humphreys befriend many miners over their travels who take them in for the night. They also are robbed and witness a deadly fire at one of their hosts dwellings.
Splitsville
With Siberia behind them, Lilwall's trip is just beginning. After a series of arguments, the pair split up in Japan. Humphreys continues his solo bicycle journey toward home, and Lilwall ponders whether to give up or extend his travels.
Fortunately for us, Lilwall decides to take the long route home and is on the road for another two years.
While some of his journey takes him across the “tame” countryside of China, the Philippines, Australia, India and other countries, he also journeys across New Guinea, Afghanistan and Iran. With companions he met on the road, he sneaks past Chinese outposts in Tibet because he doesn't have the proper documentation.
Jungle crossing
To me, the most amazing was his bicycle tour across Papua New Guinea. There are no roads across the island nation. Lilwall spends many miles cycling through the sand on beaches, visiting small jungle villages along the way, before confronting the biggest challenges.
That obstacle was the central mountain chain he had to cross on the island. This is where he was turned back by flooding rivers and nearly gave up. He and his guide gave it another try, and finally made it after crossing raging streams, slogging through marshes and hacking through muddy jungle trails.
Thoughout his journey, Lilwall is meeting and interacting with people he meets along the way. Some of these are people he's contacted through connections back in England. Others are folks who he meets by accident and often feed him and give him a place to sleep.
“Magic letter”
Lilwall also writes about a long-distance romance he strikes up with a woman he meets on his travels and questions about his own faith when he discusses religion with people along the road.
We learn that one of the items that serves him best is a “magic letter.” This is a short explanation of his trip written in the local language. Humphreys and Lilwall used it to ease introductions when bicycling through Siberia, and Lilwall refreshes it from time to time as he continues his 3,000-mile journey.
All in all, Lilwall tells a gripping story of his challenges crossing Siberia, Papua New Guinea, and the war-torn nations in the Middle East. In the tamer areas, Lilwall continues to keep things interesting by telling stories about local people and cultures that you'd only learn by being on the road.
Motivating
The book also is a great motivator for going for a bicycle ride. You'll never shrug off a ride because it's a little damp or cold after reading about Lilwall's hardships.
You can learn more about “Cycling Home from Siberia” at the Rob Lilwall website.
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